Pernettia: tips for planting and grooming outdoors and indoors

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Pernettia: tips for planting and grooming outdoors and indoors
Pernettia: tips for planting and grooming outdoors and indoors
Anonim

Characteristics of the pernettia plant, recommendations for planting and care when growing, how to reproduce, methods of pest and disease control, notes for gardeners, species and varieties.

Pernettya (Pernettya) belongs to the genus of evergreen flora, characterized by a shrub form of growth. According to various sources, the genus includes from 5 to 20 species, which mainly grow in South America (the lands of Argentina and Chile, including Tierra del Fuego) and are endemic to it (that is, there is nowhere else to meet them in nature). However, today they are cultivated in Australia. The genus is included in the Ericaceae family. The most famous of the whole genus is the species Pernettya mucronata.

Family name Erica or Heather
Growing period Perennial
Vegetation form Shrub or semi-shrub
Breeding method Vegetatively (by rooting cuttings or layering), occasionally using seeds
Landing period in open ground It is best to plant in autumn, occasionally in spring - from November to March
Landing rules Saplings are planted at a distance of 40-100 cm from each other
Priming Drained, nutritious and sour
Soil acidity values, pH 5-6 (slightly acidic) and below
Lighting degree Sunny location or partial shade
Humidity parameters Prevent the soil from drying out
Special care rules Acid fertilizers are applied
Height values 0.4–1.5 m
Inflorescence shape Racemose
Flower color White, red or cream
Flowering time Last decade of May
Fruit shape and color Globular, white, red, pink, lilac or lilac
Fruiting period September to february
Decorative period Year-round
Application in landscape design In flower beds, next to heather representatives, in rock gardens, to form a low hedge, often cut
USDA zone 6 and up
Frost resistance -20 C

As mentioned above, the plant does not shed its foliage with the arrival of cold snaps. The height of pernettia shoots varies within 40–150 cm. It happens that the shoots begin to spread to the sides, forming a creeping shrub, while its diameter can be almost 1.5 m. Its crown is formed by a large number of thin straight-growing stems. The root system has a fine-fibrous structure, it is characterized by abundant branching, with its development, the formation of numerous root processes, called stolons, occurs.

Numerous leaf plates are distinguished by a rich deep dark green color, their size is small, the surface is glossy and leathery. The petioles are only slightly marked. In some regions, the foliage acquires a brown or bronze tone for winter. The outlines of the leaf are oval-lanceolate, with a sharpening at the apex.

When blooming, small flowers are also revealed, which have the shape of a water lily or a bell. The structure of the flower is terry. The color of the petals can be whitish, red or creamy. In appearance, the flowers of pernettia are somewhat similar to the flowers of erica. They, hanging from the pedicels, are grouped, remotely resembling the flowering of a lily of the valley - that is, the inflorescence is racemose. The flowering process mainly occurs in the third May decade, but some species begin to open their buds in April. In order to be able to pollinate, since the plant is monoecious (only female or male flowers open on one bush), it is necessary to have specimens of different sexes.

After the flowers are pollinated, the fruits begin to ripen, which in Pernettia are valued for decorativeness much higher than flowers. The fruit is a fleshy drupe, the diameter of which reaches 1.5 cm and more in some varieties. Its surface is glossy. The shape of the fruit is spherical, but the color takes on snow-white, red, pinkish, lilac or lilac shades. Ripening of fruits occurs in the period October-November and they remain on the branches until the beginning of spring days. It happens that when a new wave of flowering begins, the fruits are adjacent to the opening buds. Despite the fact that the fruits are not poisonous (although according to some reports they contain toxins), they should not be eaten.

The plant is extremely interesting and if provided with proper care it will become the highlight of the garden and even the room. Although in the latter case, as with camellias, you will have to provide wintering or grow in cold greenhouses.

Recommendations for planting pernettia and care at home

Pernettia in a pot
Pernettia in a pot

The plant can be cultivated in a relatively warm climate, since if in winter the thermometer drops below the -20 frost mark, then the shrub may freeze to the very roots.

It should be noted the following rules of agricultural technology when caring for pernettia in the open field:

  1. Landing place this exotic is better to pick up open and good lighting from all sides by the sun, but the bush can withstand partial shade. However, in the latter case, the shoots will be too stretched. The plant is also suitable for terraced cultivation as a pot crop. It is also worth choosing a location that is sheltered from the winds, as young Pernettya will suffer greatly from them.
  2. Soil for pernettia must be provided with a slightly acidic reaction (pH 5-6), the best choice would be the soil for heather crops. During planting, it is recommended to generously sprinkle the substrate with peat moss, compost or treated manure. Also, garden soil can be mixed with coniferous needles collected in a park or forest. Re-cooking, such a coniferous component will help maintain the acidity of the soil. It is also recommended to apply fertilizer for the transplant to stimulate the rapid engraftment of the seedlings.
  3. Landing pernettia. It is best to practice planting bushes in autumn. However, if the plant is purchased in a container, then planting can be carried out in the spring months. That is, in the period from November to early March - at this time, the exotic is at rest. If the region is famous for not too mild winters, then planting is best done in the spring, so that adaptation is completely completed before winter. The distance between the seedlings must be kept within 40–100 cm. In order to get fruits, when planting, male and female seedlings alternate. A hole for planting is dug in such a way that an earthen lump of a seedling with a root system can freely fit in it. Since the shrub can spread through root shoots, it is better to think in advance about limiting their growth when planting. For example, lay pieces of slate around the perimeter. Some then simply cut off the underground roots with a sharp shovel, sticking the tool into the ground at a right angle. The best time for the procedure is early spring or late autumn. Since it has not yet been identified whether Pernettya berries are poisonous or not, it is better not to plant in places where small children or pets will have access to the bushes. It is interesting that plants that have reached 1–2 years of age are suitable for planting, and until that time it is recommended to cultivate indoors. After planting, the trunk circle is covered with a layer of spruce needles mulch, which will not only protect the soil from drying out, but also prevent weeds from rapidly multiplying, and will also serve as acidification of the substrate.
  4. Watering when caring for an exotic, it should be carried out when the topsoil has begun to dry out slightly. This is because by its appearance it is impossible to determine whether the plant has enough moisture or not. Thus, you can even dry out pernettia (its appearance will not change in any way) when the soil is completely dry. It is important not to bring the soil to the bay, as this will provoke rotting of the root system, and the berries will begin to sour.
  5. Fertilizers when growing, pernettia must be applied in the last week of February or early summer. They stop entering funds in late July or early August. This is done so that young shoots have time to ripen before the onset of cold weather. It is important to use fertilizers intended for rhododendrons, that is, the composition is acidic. If this is not done, there is a chance of chlorosis. Complete mineral complexes such as Kemira-Universal can also be used. Before applying fertilizers for the day in the evening, abundant watering of the soil is carried out and only then top dressing is performed. Watering is also needed after it.
  6. Wintering. Despite the fact that the plant comes from warm regions, it can perfectly survive frosts down to -20 degrees. If the cultivation is carried out in climates with mild winters, then even shelter may not be needed. Otherwise, there is a recommendation to cover the bushes with a layer of fallen dry leaves, spruce branches, or use a non-woven material (for example, spunbond).
  7. Pruning when caring for pernettia, it is practically not carried out, since the plant has a low growth rate. But if it is necessary to correct the shape of the crown, then the best time will be spring.
  8. The use of pernettia in landscape design. Plants that also prefer "wastelands" suitable for heathers - camellias or rhododendrons - will also be excellent neighbors for exotics, but if you want to plant less massive representatives of the flora nearby, then they prefer chrysanthemums or cyclamens, azaleas or asters. Looks good nearby boxwood. Pernettia can be planted both in flower beds and in stone gardens, rock gardens. With their help, a low hedge is formed. Since shoots with berries look quite unusual, it is recommended to use them for small flower arrangements. Or the fruits serve as a filler, which fits in the base of flower compositions. To keep the berries better, the cut is carried out in the morning, then the branches are kept in cold water, and only in the late afternoon they are ready for use.

When growing pernettia indoors, you should also adhere to the following rules, which differ little from the content in the garden:

  1. Location should be sunny or lightly shaded. But if the pot of pernettia is placed on the southern windowsill, then at noon it is worth pulling up the window with a light curtain. Unlike a garden, where there is always a movement of air masses, this is not in the room, and the leaves can be burned under the influence of direct rays of the sun.
  2. Temperature when grown indoors, pernettia should be maintained within 18-24 degrees in summer, but with the arrival of autumn, the plant should be placed in cooler conditions - at 5-15 degrees of heat. Cool greenhouses or greenhouses are better suited for this, you can take the pot out to the balcony if the room is insulated. The level of lighting is also important here - it should be high.
  3. Priming you should also buy sour. You can use a special commercial one, intended for rhododendrons and camellias, or mix it yourself from peat crumbs, leaf humus, a small amount of garden soil and spruce sawdust. The acidity should also remain - no more than 5, 5 pH. A full complex preparation is mixed into the composition (for example, Kemiru-Universal) - 30 grams of the product is taken per bucket of substrate.
  4. Landing Pernettia held in autumn or early spring. The pot must have holes for the drainage of excess moisture and it is recommended to lay a layer of drainage (pebbles or expanded clay) on its bottom. A transplant is necessary every couple of years, since the root system grows, but when the exotic crosses the line in 4 years, you can transplant it into open ground or grow it as a tub plant. Since the bushes are characterized by the presence of only male or female flowers, in order to receive fruits, it is necessary to place heterosexual plants nearby.
  5. Humidity with room care, the pernettia should be high, therefore it is recommended to regularly spray the crown from a finely dispersed spray bottle. This is best done in the evening.
  6. Watering this representative of heather when grown indoors should be carried out when the soil is only slightly dry. You can find out tactilely by touching the ground with your fingers. In no case should even the slightest dryness be allowed. It is necessary to maintain such a regime so that the bay does not occur, as this can provoke rotting of the root system and fungal diseases. In the heat, humidification is increased. In winter, watering will be less abundant and frequent. Since, unlike cultivation in open ground, the soil is not mulched with spruce needles, it is necessary to irrigate with acidified water every two weeks. To do this, add a couple of drops of lemon juice or a few crystals of citric acid to the water. So for a 10 liter bucket of water, add 100 grams of vinegar in a 9% concentration, or 1 teaspoon of citric acid is dissolved in three liters of water. You can take the same amount of oxalic acid.
  7. Fertilizers, as for any plant, it is necessary to use it regularly, but here they are used acidic, which will serve as protection against chlorosis (for example, Mr. Color Anti-Chlorosis). Pernettia is not fed during the dormant period, but they must be applied in the last week of February or at the beginning of June.
  8. Pruning crowns can be performed with the arrival of spring, if there is a need for it. Then remove the interfering shoots or those that contribute to the thickening of the bush. The cuttings can subsequently be used for reproduction.

Read also about growing wild rosemary at home.

Pernettia: how to breed

Pernettia in the ground
Pernettia in the ground

To get such an unusually decorative bush, you should use both the seed method and the vegetative method - rooting cuttings or layering.

  1. Reproduction of pernettia by layering. The plant is distinguished by the presence of stallons - elongated stems growing horizontally underground, which end in nodules and allow the plant to vegetatively propagate in nature. Therefore, next to the bush, over time, you can see young growth. By the way, when grown as a pot culture in pernettia during transplantation, when the bush is removed from the pot, you can see individual shoots already growing from the sides on the root system. The separation of such layers can only be dealt with when they turn a year after education. Not earlier! All due to the fact that such a plant should feel like a separate specimen and grow a viable root system. In the spring, such processes of a heather bush are separated and carefully transplanted to a prepared place in the garden or a pot filled with soil.
  2. Reproduction of pernettia by cuttings. To do this, in the period July-August, it is necessary to cut the blanks from the tops of the shoots. Their length should be about 5–10 cm. Before planting, it is recommended to treat the slices with a rooting stimulator (for example, Heteroauxin or Kornevin). For planting, it is recommended that the substrate be made of sand, half mixed with peat chips. Some gardeners successfully practice in the winter, when pernettia is at rest - from November to February. The container with cuttings is covered with plastic wrap or a plastic bottle with a cut bottom is placed on top. Care consists in airing and watering the soil, preventing it from drying out and flooding. When the cuttings are sufficiently rooted, the shelter is removed, but cultivation is continued at home until the seedlings are 1–2 years old.
  3. Reproduction of pernettia using seeds. This method is not very successful, since the bushes grown in this way can lose the characteristics of the parent specimen.

See also breeding methods of brukentalia.

Pest and disease control methods for growing pernettia

Pernettia grows
Pernettia grows

The biggest problem in the cultivation of this heather is a disease such as chlorosis. In this case, the leaves begin to lose their rich shade, but the veins continue to be painted in a dark green color. Eventually, the foliage will turn yellow and fly around. To prevent such a nuisance when caring for pernettia, it is recommended to periodically (once every 14 days) water with acidified water, which, when grown not only indoors, but also in open ground, will not harm. In the garden, you can mulch the trunk circle with spruce needles. Periodically add preparations containing iron sulfite. Do not plant the plant in an area with a calcareous substrate.

When the irrigation regime is violated, and the soil is constantly in a waterlogged state, then the onset of putrefactive processes affecting the root system is possible. To eliminate the problem, watering is stopped and the condition of the pernettia improves. If this does not happen, then the bush is removed from the soil and the root system is examined. In the presence of spoiled and rotten roots, they are carefully removed, and the rest are treated with fungicidal preparations. Then planting is carried out in a disinfected pot and soil (when grown indoors) or in a new place with sterilized soil.

If by chance pests appear on the plant (for example, aphids, spider mites or scale insects), then treatment with insecticidal preparations such as Actellik or Aktara should be carried out immediately.

Read also about the protection against diseases and pests of the heather plant

Notes to gardeners about Pernettia

Blooming Pernettia
Blooming Pernettia

Ethnobotanical reports indicate that Indian peoples from Mexico to Chile ate the fruits of the plant in order to be drunk. Therefore, there is the Indian name Pernettya furens - Hierba Loco or the Grass of Madness, and the Peruvian name Pernettya parvifloilia - "Macha-Macha", means "drunkenness". Since only these varieties are referenced, botanists believe that other species cannot have similar properties. Often such judgments lead to natural confusion when it is discovered that Pernettya prostrata, Pernettya leucocarpa, and of our garden varieties, Pernettya mucronata, in the opinion of many peoples, have completely edible berries.

For example, Pernettia bushes, widespread in the lands of South America (Argentina and Chile), including Tierra del Fuego, according to Lucas Bridges, who lived in this region for forty years, mentions this representative of the flora (who in these places was also called "Gush") like an edible berry.

Types of pernettia

In the photo, Pernettia is pointed
In the photo, Pernettia is pointed

Pernettia pointed (Pernettya mucronata),

the most popular species, growing in the Southern Hemisphere, which includes the territories of Southern Argentina and Chile, prefers to settle in light forests with high air and soil humidity or in open areas. It is an evergreen shrub, the crown of which is formed by tough, compacted branches. By means of densely branched underground shoots, the growth of the bush to dense thickets is possible. Under natural conditions, the plant can reach a height of 1.5 m in height, with a diameter of about 1.2 m. If the variety is cultivated, then its indicators are more modest.

The leaf plates reach a length of 0.8–2 cm and a width of approximately 0.3–0.6 cm. The leaf petioles are shortened. The outlines of the leaves are ovoid or oval, rounded at the base, and the tip is pointed. There is a fine serration along the edge. The color of the foliage is dark green, the surface is shiny and leathery.

During flowering, which occurs in the period from May to June, flowers with bell-shaped outlines and whitish petals begin to open. The plant is dioecious, that is, it has female and male flowers on separate bushes. When autumn comes, all the shoots become decorated with fruits, which are drupes. The fruits are fleshy and glossy. The diameter of the berries reaches 1 cm, their color is pink or red. The fruits remain, not falling on the shoots until next spring, sometimes adjacent to the blossoming flowers.

Ripening fruits are juicy, fleshy and have some sweetness. However, the berries are rather tasteless and are somewhat similar in texture to polystyrene. The peoples of Central and South America have long used berries for food, using them as the main food product. But, despite this, the plant is included in the list of dangerous ones that can cause both paralysis and hallucinations.

In countries where the temperature during the winter period does not fall below -17 degrees below zero (USDA zone 7), it is possible to use it as a street culture. Since there are a large number of varieties in horticulture, but the most interesting, characterized by the most decorative outlines and fruits, are recognized:

  • Bell's Seedling or Bell seedling, possessing the fruits of a dark red color, reaching 1 cm in diameter.
  • Crimsonia pleases the eye with large crimson berries, about 1.5 cm in diameter.
  • Melberry Wine or Silky Wine has a crimson-purple color of the fruit.
  • Sneeuwwitje or Snow White possesses the fruits of a snow-white color, often with a spot of pink tones.
  • Alba characterized by a snow-white shade of berries.
  • Rosea has pink fruits.
  • Royal Red or Royal red with berries of a rich red tone.
  • Tamifolia (Thymifolia) variety with masculine snow-white flowers and leaves resembling thyme foliage.
In the photo by Pernettiya Hirt
In the photo by Pernettiya Hirt

Pernettya hirta

represented by a shrub whose branches do not exceed 10 cm. Shoots grow open (creeping) or half open. On their surface, pubescence of hairs with a length of 1–3, 2 mm is present. At first, the color of the hairs is purple or reddish-brown, but then changes to grayish. The leaves are practically sessile. Foliage outlines vary from wide to narrow elliptical or oblong-elliptical. The length of the sheet plate is 10–17x5–8 mm. The base of the leaf changes from rounded to cone-shaped, the apex is sharp, the edge is somewhat thickened and rounded, there is a serration at the edge. The color is olive green above and purple-brown below.

Flowers with pedicels 6-9 mm long, the surface of which is also hairy. Petals of calyx 4–5, ovate, 2, 5–3 mm long, sharp to pointed, glabrous, but along the edges along the entire length there are bristles with reddish hairs and distally white cilia. The corolla is bell-shaped, its dimensions are 5–6 sq. mm, white or pinkish, becoming reddish, there are 4-5 petals. The length of the petals is 1–1, 3 mm. Stamens 8-10 pieces, filiform and bare in length are 2 mm. The fruit is a fleshy berry, 8-9 mm in diameter, glabrous, dark blue-black at maturity. Flowering: August-January; bears fruit: August-April, December.

Natural distribution is in Colombia, and the plant is also recognized as endemic to this territory. A rare and endangered species, growing it, it becomes possible to save the population.

Pernettya howellii

Shallow or straight shrub, 10–30 cm high, occasionally reaching 0.5 m. Dioecious; branches are thin, striped with reddish, straight, angular hairs, 1.5 mm in length. Leaves are sessile, ovate, ovate-elliptical, ovate-oblong or elliptical-oblong. Their sizes vary in the range of 4-10x2, 5-6 mm. The base is rounded or wedge-shaped, the apex is pointed.

Flowers with pedicels 3-4 mm long, are connected in bunches. Bracts are ovate, 1, 5–2, 3 mm long, pointed, glabrous. The calyx is smooth, the lobes are oval or triangular, 1, 3–2, 2 mm long, pointed. Corolla is cylindrical, 3-4.5 mm long and 2.5 mm in diameter. Its color is white, petals 1–1.5 mm long. 8-10 stamens are formed, 1, 6-2, 4 mm long. The berry is spherical, 4–5 mm in diameter, white or often pinkish at maturity, occasionally red. Blossoming February-June and September-October; bears fruit in February-June.

In nature, growth occurs in the Galapagos Islands. Occurs on mountain slopes, in grassy areas, humid depressions, sphagnum bogs, ridges and at the base of rocks, at altitudes of 650–1040 m.

Related article: Tips for planting and caring for a rhododendron outdoors

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