Having mastered the types of hand seams, you can start sewing. Master classes will help you sew a bow, fold it, tie a scarf, first creating this accessory. Any seasoned dressmaker was once a beginner. If you want to do this kind of needlework from scratch, check out the types of seams. Then you can create simple things in order to gain experience and make gifts for yourself or others with your own hands.
Types of seams
Even if you don't have a sewing machine yet, you can create things using a needle and thread. Master simple stitches first, then you can apply trimmings to decorate your pieces.
The basting stitch is one of the simplest, it is used to pre-join parts.
- If you say to yourself, "I want to sew, where do I start?" - that thread into the eye of the needle. Now tie a knot on it if you are sewing in one thread. But for beginners, it is easier to start with a double strand so as not to get confused. To do this, connect the ends of the thread, align them, make one knot.
- Pierce the fabric from the wrong side with the tip of the needle, bring the tool to the right side, pull it up so that the knot remains on the wrong side. With a 7 mm step back, push the needle in the opposite direction to bring it to the wrong side.
- You will have a 7mm stitch on your face. You can make it in a different size - 5–10 mm. Sew the entire line in this way.
- If you are connecting two cuts, then fold them with the right sides, perform this seam on the wrong side.
- Make the stitches wide enough. After all, when you then sew with the main seam on a typewriter, you need to rip the preliminary outline.
The basting seam must be sewn with threads that are different in color from the main fabric. If you are using black linen, then use white threads and vice versa.
Practice to master this simple science. Now you can go further, telling what other types of hand stitches exist.
The basting stitch is made with threads of the same color as the fabric. Having mastered it, you can sew by hand, without using a typewriter. For the work to be done efficiently, fasten the thread well. To do this, start with two small parallel stitches. Next, follow them on the same horizontal line, making sure that the stitches and the distance between them are the same size.
To secure the thread at the end, sew a back stitch. See how it's done.
- Also start with two parallel stitches, then bring the needle to the right side and sew a 5mm stitch.
- The needle turned out to be on the wrong side, sew another seam of the same length here, bring the needle out to the face, pierce the fabric in the opposite direction with it.
- Thus, complete the entire line. If you do it smoothly and neatly, it will look like a machine seam.
- You can adjust the stitch length to your liking, making it slightly shorter or slightly longer. The main thing is that they are the same size.
If you do not have an overlock, secure the edges of the garment using an overlock stitch. At the same time, they will not wrinkle, and the created thing will look neat both from the front side and from the inside.
As you can see, stepping back 5–7 mm from the edge of the product, you need to pierce the fabric here with a needle, make an arcuate movement with your hand, then perform exactly the same stitch, which will be the same size as the first. Between them, you will have a small arc made of threads, which will beautifully shape the edges of the product. Continue in the same way with parallel stitches.
These are the main types of hand stitches that will be needed for sewing work. Speaking about where to start sewing, we can say that from memorizing how they are performed. After that, it's time to move on to other types of processing of fabric products.
Auxiliary seams for beginners
If you need to transfer the markings from one part to another, you sew along it by connecting these two blanks, then open the seam between them. And the desired outlines will be reflected in two details at once.
In this photo, this copying seam, which is also called "snares" in another way, is designated under the number 3, and under the number 2 - the interlocking seam. It is similar to a basting (Fig. 1), but the distance between the stitches is less than they themselves.
Further, under the number 4, the transfer seam is indicated. It is used to adjust the pattern or connect parts that have curly cuts. To do this, a cut is bent on such a workpiece, aligning it with the face of the second part. Fasten in this place with pins.
Then these blanks are swept away, making parallel pricks, the distance between which is 2–5 mm.
Under the number 5a 5b, there are seams for processing the edges of parts, such as waves, frills. This is a round seam. To complete it, you need to bend the cut 3-4 mm to the wrong side, dial 2-3 threads. To speed up the work, you can not tighten them, but do it after 20-30 or more stitches.
You are already familiar with the stitching seam (Fig. 6), above it was called "back needle", which is the same thing. Marking in another way is called "by the needle" (Fig. 8). The technique for its execution is similar to the stitch one, but the same distance must be left between the stitches.
Some of the hand seams below will help you finish the edges of your garment.
If you are using a thin fabric, then hem them with an oblique overedge seam in an iron (Fig. 1 a). That is, both edges of the product are ironed in one direction.
The next type of their design requires ironing in different directions. This is an oblique overcasting seam in a flattening (Fig. 1 b).
To sew an overlock buttonhole (fig. 2), sew diagonal stitches first to one side, then to the other.
You are already familiar with buttonhole overcasting (fig. 3).
The next one is an open simple sewing stitch (fig. 4). Tucking the edge of the product, guide the thread diagonally, you will hem it.
So that the threads are not visible on the front side, here you need to take only a few fibers from the inside of the fabric with the tip of the needle. This is how a blind hem stitch is made (fig. 5).
In order to neatly and beautifully arrange the bottom of the product, it is better for beginners to first tuck it up evenly and fix it with a basting (Fig. 6), and only then hem. A figured hemming seam will allow you to make it on the reverse side of the product so that the elements look like even crosses (Fig. 7).
Common sewing terms
Deciphering them will help beginners understand which stage of work is meant.
- Sweep away - this means temporarily connecting the cuts using simple basting stitches. Such seams are used to then sew them on a typewriter or during fitting, then the thing will sit well on the one for whom you are creating it.
- Sketch out - means to attach a decorative detail to the base, for example, a neckline, a pocket.
- Overcast - this is to process the edges of the seam to prevent shedding of the fabric.
- Sweep inmeans to connect the parts along rounded lines. For example, sew a sleeve into the armhole, a collar into the neckline.
- Sew on - this is to attach hooks, buttons, braid, buttons with several stitches.
- Hemmeans to attach its edge to the product using blind stitches, for example, the bottom of a shirt.
- Make a snare - this is to sew stitches with the formation of small loops of 5–7 mm in order to transfer the chalk line from one workpiece to the second identical one, for example, to mark a dart from the left shelf to the right. These terms are used when sewing by hand. When using a sewing machine, you also need to know what certain words mean.
- Stitch - connect the cuts with a simple seam.
- Edging - this is a simple seam processing of the edges of parts. For example, overstitch the sides with chins, and lining the valves.
- To grind, it means to connect a small part with a larger one using a line. For example, stitching pockets, gussets, cuffs. Sewing for beginners will be easier if they learn other terms found in descriptions for patterns and products.
- Undercut - this means bending the edge of the part and stitching it. Thus, the bottom of trousers, shirts, shirts is hemmed.
- Customizemeans to make a finishing line on the front side, parallel to the edge of the part. This is how a pocket is sewn to trousers or a skirt, a yoke to a bodice.
- Embed, if you come across such a term, you will know that you need to sew a collar to the neckline or into the armhole of the sleeve.
- Rip up - iron it with a steamer and sew two lines with a finishing seam on the front side near the main seam.
Now you are familiar with the basic terms, seams, this will come in very handy when you create various things from fabric. Let's start with some simple examples. You need to practice to keep the stitching straight.
Handkerchief: where to start sewing
You must have such a thing with you. It is good if a scarf for a woman is trimmed with lace braid or decorated in a different way. It is better to take for it a natural cotton fabric that absorbs well. Also, a handkerchief can be an adornment for a man's suit, then both types of fabrics should be combined.
To sew a handkerchief, take:
- cut of the canvas;
- a needle;
- scissors;
- ruler;
- crayon;
- spool of thread to match.
After you have prepared everything you need, you can start working to sew a beautiful accessory for your beloved man.
Use a ruler to mark the desired square from the corner of the canvas. It can be a rectangle with a side from 25 to 43 cm. But for a man it is better to take the maximum size.
Iron the edges of the future scarf from all sides to the wrong side by 4 mm. Tuck again 5 mm, iron again. As a result, the edge of the product will be inside the seam, so that the fabric will not crumble at the cut. Sew from wrong side, stitching parallel to the hem line.
You can first tuck the edges of the handkerchief twice, chop it off with pins. When you sew a line, gradually take them out, prick them into the needle bar. By the way, you will absolutely need this item. Read on to learn how to make a pincushion.
If a man's handkerchief is your first such job, you have never sewed on a typewriter before, then you need to tell more about this. Gently raise the presser foot and needle, lower the presser foot, then the sewing machine needle by hand. Sew forward three stitches, then set the governor to the opposite side, sew backward, thereby securing the beginning of the stitching.
Undercut the ends of the handkerchief on all sides. To secure the thread well at the end, also sew a little back, then forward. While rotating the wheels, raise the needle, then the foot. Cut the thread at the beginning and end of the stitching. Now you have it well fixed.
See how to fold a handkerchief.
Presidential fold
Place the scarf in front of you, roll the left side to the right to fold it in half vertically. Fold the scarf horizontally in the same way. Place it in your pocket with a neat fold at the top.
Two corners
Here's how to fold a handkerchief using this method.
First, also roll it vertically and horizontally. Now pull the bottom corner up by creating a triangle. At the same time, place the upper corners so that the lower one is barely visible from under it. Place its right edge on the left folded in. Turn it over, put it in your pocket so that the upper corners look out from there.
If you want to make a woman's handkerchief, then it should be smaller than a man's. After you have sewn it on all four sides, overlap with a small lace tape, stitch it over to close the seam of the handkerchief. If you want to make shuttlecocks, then fold the folds after a certain number of centimeters. You can first collect the braid on the thread, tighten, then sew on such a magnificent decoration along the edge of the handkerchief.
This is where you need to start sewing for those who are just mastering the basics of this interesting wisdom.
There are other simple things to do. If you are wondering how to tie a neckerchief, you should sew it first. Of course, you can buy this piece of wardrobe, but it is not always easy to find a scarf of the right size and color. If you like the fabric, it is better to purchase it and make this thing yourself.
Before tying your neckerchief to create one, take:
- a cloth of fabric measuring 85 by 130 cm;
- scissors;
- thread with a needle;
- sewing machine;
- iron;
- centimeter tape;
- crayon.
After you have cut the fabric to the desired markings, fold it in half to form a trapezoid with sides of 85, 65, 85 and 45 cm.
In this case, the front sides will be inside, and the wrong sides will be outside. Having retreated 5 mm, sew from three sides, through the fourth, shortest, you need to turn this workpiece to the front side. Now tuck the edges of this hole inward by 7 mm, stepping back from the edge of 5 mm, sew this slot.
Next, fold over that edge 14cm, stitch here.
Let's make a tightening seam. Pass a double thread through a needle with a thick eye, fold it in half, and tie a knot. As a result, you have four strands. Sew along the machine line on the hands from one end to the other, but at the same time try not to pierce the scarf through, pull the thread.
To fix the scarf in this position without cutting this tight thread, sew in the opposite direction. Tighten here again.
Pass a ruler inside the formed curtain. Sew on the hands on one side of these loops, as well as in the center, only then cut the thread.
This is how the neckerchief turned out.
You can dress it in completely different ways, transforming yourself and your attire. See how to tie a scarf using different methods.
After passing a wide edge through the loop, straighten or leave one end free.
And if you stick only a small corner into the curtain, you can, by spreading the large one, lower it down to show all the beauty of the neckerchief.
Also, this large angle can be on the back, in order, for example, to cover the open back of an evening dress for the time being, or simply to decorate a plain turtleneck. Lay the neckerchief with flounces in front.
You can give symmetry to the large edge of the handkerchief that is opposite to the loop, straighten it to get this result.
To know even more on the proposed topic, watch the video review, which tells about the types of machine seams.
For an example of creating a bed set, check out the linen seams.
