The article will help to partially understand the composition of the skin care cream, which will allow in the future to buy only those products that will favorably affect the condition of the skin. The content of the article:
- Common cream ingredients
- Harmful ingredients
- Are dyes, fragrances and preservatives harmful?
Every woman who takes care of herself has repeatedly faced the problem of choosing a good cream. Some of the fair sex to solve this problem are guided by product reviews read on the Internet, others choose cosmetics, judging by their labels, others believe everything that store consultants say, still others trust the tastes of their acquaintances, but it is the fifth group of people who are largely satisfied purchase, because he chooses the cream according to its composition.
What the cream consists of
After reading the composition of the product, you can say a lot about the cream, including: what type of skin it is intended for, whether it will injure sensitive skin, how the product smells, whether it will clog pores, whether it is suitable for people with rosacea, whether it will protect the skin from the negative effects of ultraviolet radiation and whether it fights aging.
All moisturizers are marked with a similar composition, the first five components are almost identical, the difference lies in the rest of the components.
Companies that produce cosmetic products must fully indicate the composition of the product on its label. Moreover, the composition of the ingredients should be written in descending order. This means that first the component that is in the product is greater, and in the last place should be the ingredient with the smallest number in the cream. The base of the cream can be emulsion or gel, in the first version, the cream consists of an aqueous, fatty phase, as well as an emulsifier that connects these two phases, as for the gel base, it contains only water and a thickener. Any cream has the following ingredients:
- The foundation.
- Technological additives.
- Active ingredients.
- Preservatives.
The main thing for which the buyer pays money when buying a cosmetic product is the active ingredients. This includes various vitamins, herbal extracts, etc. It is these components that really act on the skin. It should be noted that the cream may contain useful substances for the skin. As oils, cosmetics manufacturers can use natural oils such as jojoba, rice, wheat germ, avocado, peach, apricot kernels, etc. or mineral components such as petroleum jelly, mineral oil, or paraffin oil. Floral waters such as hydrolate of mint, cornflower, chamomile, linden, sage, etc. can serve as the aqueous phase.
- The first place in the list of ingredients of a cosmetic product usually takes water … There is more of this substance in a daytime moisturizer than in a nighttime one. Some women use only natural oil for face and body care, you should take into account the fact that such an ingredient can only nourish the skin, but not moisturize. If you decide to improve the condition of the skin with the help of oil, apply it to the wet epidermis. To create creams, manufacturers do not take ordinary tap water, but distilled or demineralized water.
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A good day cream contains ingredients that prevent UV rays from damaging your skin. Distinguish between physical and chemical filters. The first group includes titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, they do not penetrate deep into the skin, but act only as a protective shield, reflecting the sun's rays. Such safe (in the correct dosage) ingredients are often added to decorative cosmetics. Titanium dioxide is also a white pigment, and zinc oxide perfectly dries pimples and reduces the oily face.
On the contrary, chemical filters penetrate deep into the epidermis, they convert solar energy into thermal energy, thereby preventing the aging process. It is better to apply creams containing such substances 40 minutes before going outside.
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
is a transparent liquid chemical compound that has passed safety tests and is widely used in UVB protection creams. With regard to UVA radiation, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane copes with them.
Sunscreens can also include Avobenzone, Homosalate, Cinoxate, Ecamsule, Menthyl anthranilate, Octyl methoxycinnamate, Octyl salicylate, Sulisobenzone, Oxybenzone, etc.
- Glycerin (glycerin) - one of the most common components of the cream. This ingredient aims to moisturize the skin and prevent moisture loss by creating a thin film on the skin. Glycerin can have the opposite effect on dry skin if the air humidity is low. When choosing a night cream, it is better to avoid this ingredient in the list, as it can lead to the formation of puffiness and bags under the eyes.
- C12-15 alkyl benzoate - a transparent water-soluble antimicrobial substance that can perfectly cleanse the skin, transform the emulsion into a thicker consistency, improve the spreading and spreading of the cream on the skin. It can also be used as a moisturizing ingredient for the epidermis, while eliminating the sticky feeling of the product. This ingredient does not clog pores and therefore is perfect for those with oily skin types.
- Glyceryl stearate - colorless, odorless powder, used as an emulsifier (for combining dissimilar ingredients), stabilizer (does not allow the phases of the base to unstick), preservative. A harmless component that softens the skin and prevents water loss.
- Cetyl alcohol added to the formulation as a thickener, to soften the skin and neutralize dryness. Suitable for all skin types without dermatitis, rosacea and allergic reactions.
- Propylene glycol - a fairly popular moisturizer in creams, an absorption enhancer. Whether this component is useful or harmful in cosmetics, there is still debate about this. It is worth noting that propylene glycol is used in the cream only in a very small dose, therefore it is not able to harm the skin as much as it is written in the media.
- Cyclopentasiloxane - low viscosity volatile silicone, consists of small molecules that are almost unable to penetrate deep into the skin due to their inertness. Cosmetics with this substance are softly and easily distributed over the skin, leaving no greasy or sticky feeling. The substance quickly evaporates, but giving the skin a silky texture.
- Sodium lactate - lactic acid salt, often used by manufacturers of cosmetics to replace glycerin due to the lack of stickiness. The substance creates a kind of film on the skin, which does not allow external irritants to negatively affect the state of the epidermis.
- Sodium chloride is used by almost every person in everyday life, as it is table salt. Of course, only a purified product is used for cosmetic purposes. Sodium chloride provides long-lasting hydration, improves skin texture and smoothes minor wrinkles.
- Tocopherol - vitamin E, slows down the aging process, promotes cell regeneration, makes wrinkles less visible, has lifting properties, improves complexion and blood circulation.
- Lactic acid is lactic acid, which significantly increases the level of hydration of the epidermis, makes the skin smoother and smoother, preventing clogging of pores. Lactic acid has a gentle peeling effect, it also stimulates fibroblasts to produce elastin and collagen, brightens the skin, and helps get rid of age spots. Lactic acid accelerates the renewal of the cellular composition of the stratum corneum.
- Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is a water-soluble form of vitamin C, which is added to the formulation of anti-age creams to reduce wrinkles, stimulate collagen synthesis at deep levels of the skin, and lighten the skin.
- Allantoin - a natural substance widely used in a wide variety of cosmetics. It has an exfoliating effect, has a softening effect, prevents the occurrence of comedones, fights well against irritation and speeds up the healing process.
- Shea butter - solid fat with a light nutty flavor. This oil also has another name - "shea", it softens and protects the skin, protecting it from dehydration, protects the skin surface from ultraviolet radiation, thereby slowing down the aging process. Shea butter can be used in its pure form, in particular for smoothing wrinkles, combating eczema and frostbite. Jojoba oil consists of wax esters, therefore it is very resistant to oxidation. Jojoba oil has an antioxidant, regenerating, anti-inflammatory effect. It perfectly moisturizes the skin, absorbs quickly, is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin, normalizes the skin's fat balance and improves blood circulation.
- As an emulsifier, manufacturers can add to the formulation of cosmetics aminomethylpropanol, ceteareth-12, 20, 30, 33, palmitamidopropyltrimonium chloride, PVM / MA copolymer, steareth-2, steareth-21, steareth-20, peg-30 dipolyhydroxystearate(consists of coconut oil and glycerin, it is a soft emulsifier for the skin), sucrose stearate (moisturizes the skin, does not cause allergies), polysorbate 65.
- Coenzyme q10 - a powerful antioxidant, slows down the aging process of the skin, accelerates cell regeneration and collagen synthesis, cleanses the skin, smoothes fine wrinkles and maintains skin elasticity.
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Hyaluronic acid (hyaluronic acid) It is primarily used in creams to moisturize the skin and improve its elasticity, to attract moisture from the air and saturate the skin with it. If glycerin dries the face with an air humidity of less than 45%, then hyaluron has a beneficial effect on the skin in any weather, perfectly protects the skin, including in winter. This substance is able to prevent the formation of wrinkles, which is widely used in anti-aging creams.
Can hyaluronic acid cream be cheap? Maybe only in this case large molecules of the active substance are added to the product, which are not able to penetrate deep into the skin, they will create a thin film on the skin, due to which the surface of the face will become smooth and moisturized. For the production of "economy class" cosmetic products, hyaluron is obtained from the vitreous body of the eyes of cattle, the umbilical cord, the combs of roosters, or from plant materials.
The formulation of expensive creams contains low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, which, in comparison with the previous version, penetrates into the dermis and activates recovery processes. This cream not only makes the skin more hydrated, but also reduces wrinkles.
What ingredients should you be wary of
It is believed that some oils can clog pores. Yes, this is true, but if they are used in small quantities, they do not have any bad effect on the skin. This rule also applies to other components of cosmetic products, not just vegetable oils. In the production of face creams, the main thing is to choose the right ingredients, as well as their quantity. Everything must be used in the correct dosage, which is what cosmetic companies do. Even a seemingly harmless antioxidant coenzyme in large quantities can adversely affect the condition of the skin.
In most facial products, glycerin is second in the list of ingredients used. It really protects and moisturizes the skin, but when the air is dry it changes the direction of its action and begins to make the skin even drier.
- Mineral oil is a common petroleum-derived skin care ingredient. The product is a compound of liquid hydrocarbons separated from gasoline. In cosmetics, it is used to create a kind of film that would not allow moisture to be retained. Keep in mind that industrial oil retains not only water, but also other substances, including waste products, which must be excreted through the skin. At the same time, mineral oil prevents the penetration of oxygen, which is so necessary for the skin. Technical oils include petrolatum, paraffin oil and paraffin, which can provoke the appearance of acne and rashes.
- Parahydroxybenzoate, that is, parabens, can be found in a wide variety of cosmetics. Usually, creams without these preservatives are more expensive, and the shelf life of such products is shorter. Parabens prevent the multiplication and growth of microorganisms, but at the same time, they can lead to the appearance of malignant tumors.
- Try not to use products with content formaldehydethat can adversely affect the skin, causing acne and allergies. Such preservatives are at the end of the composition list. Avoid 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1, 3-diol, 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane, Diazolidinyl urea, Quaternium-15, DMDM Hydantoin, Imidazolidinyl urea, Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, they are usually found in the formulations of cheap products.
Do preservatives, fragrances, dyes have a detrimental effect on the skin?
Do not believe that good creams are only those that are produced without the presence of emulsifiers and preservatives in the composition, because without the first substance, the fat phase will not bind to the aqueous one, the product will not have a uniform consistency, and without a preservative, the cream will quickly acquire microbes and it will be possible already throw it away after a few days or a week. But it is worth knowing the most harmful preservatives that are best avoided to prevent flaking, allergies, itching, skin flushing and other unpleasant skin problems:
- Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Methylparaben.
- Benzene.
- Bronopol.
- Sodium Benzoate.
- Phenoxyethanol.
It's one thing if you use a shower gel, for example, which is in contact with the skin for only a short time, but the cream is applied to the skin until it is completely absorbed.
Based on the fact that the choice of cosmetics is largely influenced by such a factor as the attractiveness of the product, companies that produce skin care products include various fragrances and dyes in their products.
By the smell of the cream, you may not understand whether there is a fragrance in the product or not. Some ingredients have a specific smell and, to cover it, manufacturers add disorienting substances, it also happens that the components themselves smell good. But it is best to buy those products that have only a light aroma, and their very consistency is not presented in a bright and too saturated color.
If you are not the owner of skin with increased sensitivity, you can ignore the presence of fragrances (parfum, fragrance) in creams.
As for dyes, it is not entirely true to believe that synthetic dyes are among the harmful ones. Almost all dyes used in cosmetics are also used in the food industry and pharmaceuticals, therefore they are safe. By the way, when you see a white face cream on the store shelf, you should not think that you have a product without the presence of coloring pigments, because sometimes manufacturers can include titanium dioxide in their products, a white pigment that is also used to protect the skin from the influence of sunlight …
Informative video about the composition of cosmetics:
