Distinctive features of the plant, recommendations for caring for whitefeldia in indoor cultivation, the secrets of independent reproduction, the fight against possible pests and diseases, facts, types. Whitefeldia (Whitfieldia) belongs to the genus of flowering representatives of the flora, which are part of the Acanthaceae family. In this genus, botanists have introduced 14 more varieties of similar plants, the territory of their distribution falls on African areas, with a tropical climate.
Because of the beautiful snow-white inflorescences, this sample of acanthus is popularly referred to as "White Candles", and also based on the English transcription, the name "Vitfeldia" is found.
Whitefeldia has a shrub or herbaceous form of growth. Under natural conditions, a plant can reach a 2-meter mark, but when grown in rooms, its dimensions are more modest - only 60–70 cm in height and width. The branches of the plant grow upright, but sometimes they can lean towards the soil. The color of young shoots, a rich green tone, but over time, a gray color is mixed with it, as if the branches begin to lignify.
All shoots of "white candles" are decorated with leaf plates that have a leathery surface. The shape of the leaf is oval, there is a sharp point at the top, but on the other side the leaf also tapers into a petiole. The arrangement of the leaves is opposite, the color is saturated dark or light emerald color. Whitefeldia leaf length ranges from 10 to 12 cm.
In the process of flowering, highly decorative inflorescences are formed, because of which the plant is so fond of flower growers. They are collected from delicate flowers that are practically devoid of aroma. The corolla of the flower is tubular with the upper petals bent back. This limb takes on a star-like shape. The size of the corolla reaches 5-7 cm. The flowers are surrounded by fluffy bracts, which increase the showiness of the outlines, the corolla, as it were, "jumps out" from the bract. Bracts very much resemble the same parts of aphelandra flowers. Often, the color of the flower itself and the bract is snow-white, but there are specimens with shades of red color.
The inflorescence is mainly formed at the tops of the shoots. The inflorescence is racemose. Such large cluster-shaped flower groups look very decorative against the background of deciduous mass, and since the number of buds in the inflorescence is large and they are all directed upward, resembling lighted candles, the plant is not called "white candles" for nothing. Flowering begins under favorable conditions in October, and lasts until March ends. But if almost natural indicators are created, then flowers can appear incessantly throughout the year.
The growth rate of the plant is quite high, the growth of shoots per year can be about 10-15 cm. Therefore, the owner will have to regularly carry out the operation to form the crown.
Growing whitefeldia is quite simple, since the plant does not set any special requirements for its care, but still it is worth fulfilling some conditions in order to enjoy flowering for many years, since it is year-round. Especially if Vitfeldia is grown in greenhouses or a winter garden.
Whitefeldia home care tips
- Lighting and selection of a place in the room. "White candles" prefer bright and diffused lighting, but direct sunlight can cause burns on the sheets. Therefore, an eastern or western location is suitable, but even so, it is recommended to place the whitefield away from the glass. But there is information that the plant can grow well and bloom in partial shade. If there is no way out, and this bright-blooming bush is on your south-facing window, then you will need to curtain it with translucent curtains or make gauze curtains. In the northern location, there may not be enough light and you will have to use phytolamp illumination.
- Whitefeldia containment temperature. The plant is nevertheless a native of the tropics, therefore, for its maintenance in the spring-summer period, the thermometer should be maintained in the range of 25-30 units, and with the arrival of autumn they are gradually reduced to 15-18 degrees.
- Growing moisture plants with white candle flowers should be at least 70%. This is the most important and time consuming condition in the cultivation of Whitefeldia. Everything is explained by the fact that when the flowers bloom, the bracts have hairy pubescence and at this time spraying is not recommended. At other times, if there is no flowering wave, then daily spraying of the deciduous mass from a fine spray gun is carried out. The humidity parameters will have to be increased by any available means. For example, containers with water are placed next to the pot, which evaporates and creates the necessary comfort. Household steam generators or humidifiers are also used. And a pot with witfeldia is placed in a deep and wide container, at the bottom of which a layer of expanded clay (pebbles or simple sand) is laid, and then a little water is poured. In this case, you will need to ensure that the bottom of the flowerpot does not come into contact with the liquid, otherwise rotting of the root system is inevitable.
- Watering. As a "inhabitant" of the tropics of Whitefeld, abundant moisture is needed, which in the spring-summer months is carried out every 3-4 days, but with the arrival of autumn it is recommended to reduce watering, bringing their frequency to once a week. The substrate in the pot should always remain moist, but it is recommended to avoid flooding it and completely dry it. In the first case, the roots will begin to rot, and in the second, the plant will quickly weaken. Water should be used only warm and well-separated. If possible, they use rain or river water, and in winter they melt snow. In any case, the liquid should be slightly warmed up so that the temperature readings are 20-24 degrees.
- Fertilizers for "white candles" are introduced from the beginning of spring days to autumn. The frequency of application of dressings is once every 14 days. Preparations are used in liquid form, the funds are necessary for indoor flowering plants. Witfeldia responds well to organic preparations.
- Transplant and advice on soil selection. The plant is recommended to change the pot for a new time a year with the arrival of the spring months. The new container is taken two sizes larger than the previous container. Since the root system of whitefeldia grows very quickly, when the bush is removed from the old container, the roots are cut off and sprinkled with powder from crushed activated charcoal or charcoal after that - this will help to disinfect the sections. Small holes must be made in the bottom of the new pot so that excess moisture can flow freely and not lead to stagnation. Also, before the new soil is poured, a layer of 2-3 cm of drainage material is placed on the bottom of the container. It is customary to use the medium fraction of expanded clay, pebbles of the same size or pieces of broken brick, parts from ceramic or clay shards. The substrate for growing whitefeldia is a light and loose composition. It can be connected independently from sod soil, humus soil, coarse sand or perlite (everything is taken one piece at a time). You can also take equal volumes of peat, sand and humus soil.
- General tips for caring for whitefeldia. The biggest challenge when growing a plant is shaping its shape. Since the growth rate of the "white candles" is quite high, pruning of too elongated shoots should be carried out regularly, but this will also contribute to their branching. It should be remembered that whitefeldia cannot develop normally if it is surrounded by smoke or gas combustion products, and drafts also negatively affect it. With the arrival of the spring-summer period, it is recommended to take the pot with the plant out into the open air - a place on the balcony, terrace or in the garden is suitable, but at the same time, shelter from direct sunlight during lunch hours and gusts of wind should be provided. In winter, the pot with witfeldia should not be placed near heating appliances or near central heating radiators. Over time, it has been noticed that the plant begins to bloom more abundantly and better.
Whitefeldia self-breeding secrets
To get a new plant of "white candles" it is recommended to root cuttings.
Usually, cutting of blanks is carried out in the spring. The length of such branches should be 5–8 cm and have a couple of knots. Planting is carried out in a moistened peat-sandy substrate, poured into a pot. Before planting, the sections of the branches should be treated with a root formation stimulator, which can be Kornevin or heteroauxin, since the rooting of whitefeldia is difficult.
After planting, the cuttings are wrapped in plastic wrap or placed under a glass jar, some growers recommend using a cut plastic bottle, the part that has a lid. This will further help airing by simply unscrewing it. Otherwise, you will need to remove the cover for 10-15 minutes daily.
Rooting should take place at heat values in the range of 22-24 degrees. Caring for cuttings consists in adhering to the specified temperature, making sure that the soil does not dry out, but also not flooding it and airing the seedlings daily. As soon as the roots are formed on the cuttings, young whitefeldia are transplanted in separate pots, leaving several pieces in each, so that future bushes will delight with more splendor. It will also require regular pinching of the shoot tips over time to stimulate branching. A new transplant is recommended when the root system of the plant has mastered all the soil provided to it.
Diseases and pests in indoor growing whitefeldia
If conditions of detention (especially air humidity) begin to be constantly violated, then the plant of "white candles" can become a target for harmful insects such as spider mites, mealybugs or whiteflies.
Each of the pests is distinguished by its "symptoms" of manifestation:
- When attacked by a spider mite, the leaves and branches of whitefeldia can become covered with a thin cobweb, on the back of the leaves along the edge small punctures are visible, like needle punctures (this pest pierces the leaf plate with its proboscis and sucks out nutritious juices). Usually the foliage loses its color, becomes yellowish and flies over time. Young leaves unfold deformed and smaller.
- The mealybug is perfectly distinguishable due to the formation of whitish lumps, reminiscent of cotton wool balls on the back of the leaf plate, the same cotton-like lumps can be seen in internodes. A sticky sugary bloom appears, called padya - these are the waste products of the pest. If measures are not taken, then such a substance can be a favorable environment for the formation of a sooty fungus.
- The whitefly is clearly visible due to the fact that if you touch the bush, a swarm of small snow-white midges rises above it. Also, when you turn the leaf with the back side, then the entire surface will be covered with whitish dots - pest eggs. Over time, a sugar pad appears on the leaves.
If any of the above signs are detected, an insecticidal treatment should be carried out immediately with repeated spraying after a week.
Of the troubles that also occur with Whitefeldia, in case of violation of the rules for care, there are:
- Lack of lighting leads to a loss of brightness of the color of the foliage, its size becomes small, the shoots are strongly stretched - you need to rearrange the pot with the plant closer to the light source.
- With insufficient humidity in the air, the ends of the leaf plates begin to dry out, and in bright light on the surface of the foliage areas of brown tissue appear - it is required to install a bucket filled with water next to the Witfeldia pot, and then move the plant to partial shade, with cool temperature readings, all damaged leaves are recommended delete.
- When the leaf plates in the lower part of the plant began to turn yellow and fly around, then this is a sign of waterlogged and viscous soil - transplanting into a new substrate will be required, but before that all damaged root processes will have to be removed.
- If whitefeldia is grown in an unventilated room with musty air, then it can get sick with powdery mildew when a whitish bloom forms on the leaves, as if they were doused with lime mortar. To fight, you need to remove all affected areas of the plant and carry out the treatment with Fundazol, Topaz or Vitaros.
Whiteweldia Flower Facts
For the first time the world learned about this wonderful plant with flowers-candles thanks to the botanist from England Hooker William Jackson (sir Hooker, William Jackson 1785-1865), who also served as director of the Royal Botanic Gardens, located in Kew (southwest London). In addition to Whitefeldia, in 1848, scientists first described the genus Leuchtenbergia Hook. This botanist was a prominent cactologist of the first half of the 19th century. His name was given to one of the varieties of epiphyllums.
Types of Whitefeldia
Among all the variety of representatives of the genus, only a few can be used for indoor cultivation.
- Whitefeldia brick red (Whitfieldia lateritia) represents an amazingly beautiful shrub with meter-long branches, but at the same time its shape is very compact. In cross section, the shoots are roundish. The native habitat is in the lands of Serra Leone. The leaf plates growing on the branches have a leathery surface, and their length can reach 12 cm. During flowering, inflorescences are formed, in which flowers of an unusual shade of red brick are collected. The flowering process mainly occurs during the colder months of the year, practically from the middle of autumn days until the end of March. However, it has been noticed that if the growing conditions become comfortable, then the variety can release and open flowers all year round.
- Whitefeldia elongata (Whitfieldia elongata). It is a bush of nice outlines and medium-sized sizes, while not requiring any unusual conditions of detention. Its height in nature can be 2.5 meters, but with domestic cultivation, the dimensions are more modest 60–70 cm in height and in diameter. The native territories of growth are mainly in the lands of Angola, Mozambique, southern Congo and Cameroon. On the branches, opposite leaves are formed, the length of which can reach 20 cm with a width of about 7 cm. The entire surface of the leaf is thinly strewn with veins, among which the main and lateral ones stand out. The leaf plate is leathery, shiny, painted in a dark green color. The shape of the leaf is oval with a sharpness on both sides. When flowering, snow-white flowers are formed, which are combined into an apical racemose inflorescence. The calyx of the flower may be 2.5 cm long. The corolla is tubular, the lobes are soft with pubescence with small whitish hairs, devoid of glands. The ripening fruit in the form of a capsule is 0.5 cm long and contains two pairs of seeds with a bare surface inside.
