Dionea: Venus Flytrap Care Tips

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Dionea: Venus Flytrap Care Tips
Dionea: Venus Flytrap Care Tips
Anonim

Characteristic features of the Venus flytrap, recommendations for growing Dionea, breeding rules, difficulties in cultivation, interesting facts, species. Dionea (Dionaea muscipula), or as it is also called the Venus flytrap, belongs to the monotypic genus (consisting of only one representative) of Dionea, the Rosyankov family (Droseraceae). This includes dicotyledonous specimens of flora (their embryo is distinguished by a pair of cotyledons located opposite each other), which have the ability to carnivore (eating living organisms). But do not think that these "flavors" can overcome something larger than an insect. And such a green inhabitant of the planet delivers problems at home breeding no less than the most whimsical flowers. Let's take a closer look at such an unusual predator as Dionea.

The plant got its specific name due to the mistake of a botanist-scientist, who apparently meant a "flytrap" (muscicipula), and due to inattention and omission of letters received a "mousetrap" (this is how the word is translated from Latin - muscipula). At least this version exists today. This exotic representative of flora received the Russian name in honor of the goddess of love Venus (or as it comes from the Greek mythology of Dione, the mother of the goddess Aphrodite, and whom we call Venus), she also patronized the plant world, hence Venus's-flytrap or Venus flytrap …

Dionea "chose" the territory on the Atlantic coast of the United States as a place for its growth, where a humid and temperate climate prevails, they mainly fall on the lands of the states of Florida, North and South Carolina and in New Jersey.

This predatory plant is a small herbaceous bush with a leaf rosette formed by 4–7 leaf plates originating from a short stem located under the surface of the soil. The stem is in the shape of a bulb. The size of the leaves ranges from 3–7 cm, and their length varies depending on the season. Long trap leaves begin to form only after the end of the flowering process.

Since dionea grows on soils that are deficient in nitrogen (such as swamps), therefore, the need to replenish the reserves of this element has caused traps, since the insect's body is a source of nitrogen, which is so necessary for the protein synthesis process. The Venus flytrap belongs to a small group of plants that have the ability to move quickly. Under the conditions of natural growth, not only insects, but also slugs (molluscs) can come across trap leaves.

The edges of the leaf serve as traps. The mechanism that carries out this action depends on the turgor of the leaf, its growth and elasticity. When the leaf plate is open, then it has a bend outward, and when closed, a cavity will form, the entrance to which is closed by the hairs. When an insect gets inside, these hairs or thorns are stimulated, giving rise to an electrical impulse, during the propagation of which the leaf valves will close. The prey, while still stirring, stimulates the inner part of the leaf blades, causing the growth of specific cells through which the leaf edges close. In this case, the "trap" is completely closed and the "stomach" is formed, where the process of food digestion begins. This action is caused by enzymes secreted by glands located in the leaves-lobes. In order for the prey to be digested, time must pass up to 10 days, and only the chitinous shell will remain from the insect. After that, the trap will open its entrance in anticipation of a new "catch". During the entire life of the petals-traps, on average, three insects can get there.

The surface of the trap leaf is bright green in color, its interior has a red shade similar to living flesh, and at the tips there are sharp hairs-thorns also in a red tone, but the inside of the leaves is all covered with hairs, which stimulate the processes of slamming the trap when it gets into it, any subject.

When flowering, buds appear, the petals of which are painted in a whitish shade and are crowned with elongated flowering stems. The diameter of the flower in opening reaches 1–2 cm. There are 4 petals with a surface beautifully lined with greenish veins. Inside, on long whitish filaments, milky anthers are located. After flowering, the fruits of Dionea ripen in the form of black berries. If you do not need to get seeds, then it is recommended to cut the flowers so that the plant does not waste energy on them, this will also contribute to the formation of daughter bulbs. The flowering process occurs in May-June.

Due to its curious features, this exotic plant can also be grown as an ornamental crop in indoor or soda floriculture. However, when grown indoors, care is difficult for Dionea due to insufficient humidity and high temperature indicators in winter. The growth rate is high, since a young Dionea becomes an adult specimen in 1 season, which, with proper care, can survive in rooms from a year to three.

Dionea's life is divided into four periods:

  1. With the arrival of spring heat, the plant leaves the period of winter dormancy, while a leaf rosette grows, which can reach a diameter of 5-10 cm, and by this time several peduncles are formed, having whitish flowers at the top.
  2. By the summer months, new types of leaves grow on the Venus flytrap, they are located on top of the already existing leaf plates, which are pressed tightly to the soil. New leaf formations have elongated stems, rising above the entire rosette. It is from these leaves that traps are formed. The growth of these traps is constant, they replace dead leaves, catching and digesting prey.
  3. With the arrival of autumn, preparations for "hibernation" begin, the plant only has a leaf rosette.
  4. Only a few leaves will be observed on the surface of the substrate, which are able to survive frost, but if the temperature drops low enough, then they will die off. The part placed under the ground (onion) continues to live and, with the arrival of spring, will begin to release new leaves.

Dionea growing rules, home care

Dionea in a pot
Dionea in a pot
  1. Lighting and location selection for the green predator. Naturally, the problem in caring for the Venus flytrap is to imitate the conditions of natural habitat for it - swampy areas. Therefore, it is recommended to grow the plant in a terrarium or aquarium - this will help create an environment with high humidity. But there is information that the dionei will feel normal on the windowsill, if certain rules are followed. For example, a predatory plant can grow in a shady place or under diffused lighting, but so that the duration of daylight hours is at least 4 hours a day. North, east or west window sills are also suitable. If the plant stands on the windowsill of a window facing the south, then you need to provide high-quality shading, for this you can stick tracing paper on the glass or hang gauze curtains, or curtains can also be a solution.
  2. Content temperature. The plant will feel comfortable if the heat indicators are maintained within the range of 13–20 degrees, but as practice shows, dionea can adapt well to different temperatures. The minimum at which this exotic lives painlessly is 5 degrees Celsius.
  3. Air humidity when growing a green predator, it should be at least 40%, but the plant can adapt to lower rates. You can put humidifiers or vessels with water nearby. Spraying is not carried out, but in the spring-summer period it is recommended to install the pot with the plant in a deep tray with high edges, at the bottom of which a little liquid is poured and a layer of drainage material is poured. Here you just need to make sure that the bottom of the pot does not touch the edge of the water, you can put the flowerpot on an inverted saucer.
  4. Watering. In the summer, it is better to use bottom watering when the plant pot is immersed in a basin of liquid. Water is used only rain or distilled, it must be free of all minerals. This procedure is repeated every 3 days, but with the arrival of winter, only once a week, if Dionea does not hibernate. In no case should the leaf plates get wet.
  5. Fertilizers in no case is used, as this can lead to decay of the root system.
  6. Dionea transplant. Every 2 years, you will need to change the pot and the soil in it for the Dionea. The new capacity is chosen deep, due to the extensive root system that grows downward. In depth, the pot should be twice the diameter of the plant. Holes are made in the bottom of the pot. The substrate is selected light and depleted, with high acidity. For the soil, mix peat or chopped sphagnum moss, washed and disinfected river sand, perlite (in a ratio of 3: 2: 1). Instead of ordinary sand, quartz sand is often used, devoid of various mineral inclusions.
  7. Feeding the green predator. Since, after all, Dionea is insectivorous, it will be necessary to feed with living organisms. The size of such an insect should not exceed half the size of the trap leaf. Large specimens simply cannot be completely digested and will start decay processes. And although the Venus flytrap can survive without additional feeding, such "meals" have a beneficial effect on plant growth.
  8. Dionea's wintering. The plant will begin to prepare for sleep, shedding excess foliage. This period is simply mandatory for a predator plant, if conditions allow, then it is left for the winter on the street, but in the case of frosty winters, it is better to move the Venus flytrap to the basement or keep it in the refrigerator (in the vegetable compartment). The pot with the onion is placed in a plastic bag. During this period, make sure that the bulb does not dry out and rot. Lighting at this time is not required for Dionea. With the arrival of spring, it is planted in a moistened peat-sandy or already specified suitable substrate. However, if Dionea "lives" at room temperature in winter, then it may not shed the foliage, only the growth of the plant will stop. It is important to cut off the blackened and dead leaves in a timely manner.

Recommendations for self-propagation of Dionea

Flowerpot with dionea
Flowerpot with dionea

You can get a new "green predator" using a leaf cuttings, sowing seeds or dividing a bulb.

The last method is the easiest. At the beginning of the summer period, an adult Dionea will have new bulbous formations - babies - next to the mother's bulb. You need to wait until their roots grow and carefully separate for transplantation. Cut off the young bulb at an angle using a sharpened and disinfected knife. The substrate in a pot for planting is taken as for an adult specimen.

Reproduction using seeds is a rather troublesome process, since it will require artificial pollination at the beginning of March for each of the flowers. In this case, with a soft brush, it is necessary to transfer pollen from one flower to another. When the seeds appear, they are stratified before planting: a piece of gauze is moistened in a solution of fungicide mixed with distilled water (2 drops of the product per glass of liquid) and the seed is wrapped in it. The gauze is placed in a plastic bag and placed in the refrigerator in the vegetable compartment for 1–1.5 months. It is important to ensure that the fabric is constantly moistened with the same solution. Before planting, perlite is soaked in distilled water for a week. Prepare the substrate by mixing high-moor peat with perlite in a ratio of 2: 1, respectively. This soil is placed in a container and thoroughly moistened with the same water.

The seeds are embedded in the soil to a depth of 3-5 mm. A plastic bag is put on the container or covered with a piece of glass. The container is placed in a warm and lighted place, but devoid of direct sunlight. After 2-3 weeks, the first shoots can be seen. When they grow up, picking is carried out in separate pots with suitable soil.

When using a leaf stalk, it must be separated together with a small part of the bulb. To do this, pull the leaf down a little. The resulting petiole with a part of the rhizome is planted in peat-perlite or peat-sandy soil. You can also use a flower stem on which a bud has not yet formed, which should be cut as close to the rhizome as possible. The stalk is placed under cover to create the conditions for a mini-greenhouse. It is important to regularly ventilate and moisturize the soil. As soon as signs of rooting appear, they are transplanted into a larger pot with the necessary substrate for the growth of a young Dionea.

Dionea pests and diseases and methods of their elimination

Beetle on dionea
Beetle on dionea

Dionea is rarely affected by pests, since they can become a "snack" for her, but there is still a possibility that if the rules of keeping are violated, the appearance of aphids, spider mites or fungal mosquitoes.

If the temperature of the plant is too low or the watering is too excessive, then this can lead to the beginning of decay. If the leaf plates turn yellow and fall off, it is necessary to increase the frequency of watering. However, when the leaves turn yellow, but do not fall off, this indicates too hard water, with calcium impurities in it. If the plant is in direct sunlight, this will lead to the appearance of brown spots on the leaves, or if the owner has applied mineral fertilizing.

Interesting facts about Dionea

Dionea bloom
Dionea bloom

Despite the fact that the plant feeds on living organisms, in no case should Dionea be offered fried or raw meat, or very large insects. Since these products are not completely digested in the "ventricle" of the Venus flytrap and the process of rotting inside the trap leaves may begin.

After several feeding cycles, each of these traps loses the ability to catch prey and then simply photosynthesizes. In place of the old trap, new ones will soon appear. It is impossible to "tease" the plant, irritating the trap with any objects, since each of its slamming leads to a decrease in the lifespan of the "element".

Types of Dionea

Dionea variety
Dionea variety

And although this plant has only one variety, the following subspecies were derived from it:

  1. Dionaea muscipula "Giant", has leaf traps reaching a size of 5 cm, the leaf rosette has a bright green hue, and the trap, if the lighting level is high enough, can acquire a beautiful rich color scheme.
  2. Dionaea muscipula "Akai Ryu" & "Royal Red" it is distinguished by the preservation of the purplish color of its leaves and traps in bright sunlight, but if the light level drops, they will become the usual green color.
  3. Dionaea muscipula "Regular" - a variety with a leaf rosette of green leaves, beautifully interspersed with traps of red and crimson colors.
  4. Dionaea muscipula "mix different plants" - an unusually ornamental plant with a foliage color that changes from purple to green, while traps, on the contrary, change their color from green to bloody and purple (these overflows are all on one plant).

What Dionea looks like and how she eats beetles, see here:

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