A frame bath is one of the most affordable types of baths for construction. For its construction, you do not need to hire professional builders; the work can be done on your own. Content:
- Construction features
- Building the foundation
- Bath piping
- Walling
- Roof arrangement
- External and internal finishing
Do-it-yourself frame bath is easy! It can be built in a month, while a brick can take about a year. In addition, the building material for a frame bath will cost you several times less than a brick or a log.
Features of the construction of a frame bath
If our frame baths are just beginning to gain popularity, then abroad they have long overtaken brick and log steam rooms. In the modern world, there is a large selection of materials with low thermal conductivity, which cannot be compared with the thermal conductivity of a log or brick.
A frame bath heats up quickly, while heating a brick bath takes 5-6 hours. In addition, the frame bath retains internal heat for a longer time, which allows significant savings on fuel material.
Another advantage of the frame bath is that the material from which it is erected is very light, and the structure does not settle. You can also save a lot on this, because you do not need to make a special foundation for the frame bath and spend money on expensive material.
In the process of construction work, we need the following tools and materials:
- drilling tool;
- asbestos-cement pipes 40 m long and 100 mm in diameter (from 100 rubles per meter);
- crushed stone (from 400 rubles per ton), cement (from 150 rubles per bag), sand (about 200 rubles per ton), water for solution;
- boards 20-30 mm thick (larch, linden or pine) - about 900 rubles per square;
- nails (from 25 rubles per kilogram);
- mineral wool or fiberglass for thermal insulation (from 150 rubles per roll);
- vapor barrier film or glassine (about 250 rubles a roll).
The construction of a frame bath requires compliance with several important rules:
- The wood must be well dried. Experts recommend precisely pine, larch or linden, because this wood has a low thermal conductivity, and the structure does not lose its original appearance for many years.
- When developing a project for a frame bath, pay special attention to such points as thermal insulation and vapor barrier. With a frame structure, there is a risk of condensation due to moisture that accumulates inside the frame. To avoid this, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier film between the layers of the inner lining and the insulation. As for insulation, mineral wool is used for this - this guarantees good sealing and proper air exchange.
Step one: creating the foundation of the frame bath
Considering that the frame bath is lightweight and not subject to shrinkage, the foundation will be simple:
- We make wells with a diameter of 200 mm and a depth of one and a half meters.
- We insert asbestos-cement pipes into the finished wells.
- Fill with a solution of sand and cement.
It is worth noting that you can fill in the solution immediately, or in layers. In the case of layers, you need to wait a little until the previous layer dries. The foundation is ready.
Step two: strapping the frame bath
The strapping is carried out according to the following scheme: boards, measuring 50x100 mm, are laid with the outer edge and fixed with nails. We pre-mark the walls. To connect the plinth trim, we use supports. Remember that the boards must be treated with an antiseptic before starting work, and the finished strapping with a special solution that prevents rotting.
In the process of strapping, you need to make intermediate racks, which will be needed for further sheathing and insulation. Do not forget to control the installation process at the building level. In case of deviations, roofing pads help well.
Step three: erecting walls for a frame bath
We assemble the walls of the bath in separate frames on a flat surface. The first is the wall that will be connected to the harness, and behind it all the others. We start the assembly by creating a corner. First, we fasten everything using temporary struts, and when the structure is ready, we fix the strapping with boards, hammering them in with nails.
When erecting walls, pay attention to the distance between the axes - it should be 0.6 m. But if you plan to dock with the walls of other buildings, then the distance should be 0.4 m.
Important: if you build a bathhouse in contact with stone outbuildings or walls, then the bath boards are subject to decay. To prevent this from happening, cover the space with insulating material.
Step four: the roof of the frame bath
Features of work:
- We install thick boards on the beams for temporary overlap.
- We erect truss structures on the roof, which are best assembled on the ground.
- It is very important that the roof is well ventilated.
- We lay a film between the rafter structure and the control beam.
- We stuff the crate directly onto the beams.
Step five: decorating the frame bath with your own hands
The final stage is the interior and exterior decoration of the bath:
- For exterior decoration pine or spruce boards are suitable, it can also be tiled. We put a waterproofing material under the sheathing. Recently, the use of thermal panels has become popular - they have all the thermal insulation properties. After finishing the cladding, we will plaster the walls.
- As for the inner cladding, it should be noted that it is not recommended to cover the inside of the bath wall with varnish or paint. When heated, they release harmful substances. It is recommended to cover the walls with glassine, and the walls of the steam room - with foil.
An important nuance: the vapor barrier material at the joints between the wall and the ceiling should protrude 15 cm. Learn more about how to build a frame bath yourself by watching the video:
Observe the safety rules: if your bath consists of a steam room and a relaxation area, then the wall between them should be brick.